Tag: tutorial

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So You Want to Sew A Kimono

I figured it’s about time I made a blog post with the resources I’ve gathered over the past two and half years. While I figure this is a very niche subject, the people that will want this will probably be very glad I did put this out there. I know I would have been grateful for it when I started this journey!

In this post, I will include traditional as well as substitutional items as well I could find. If you desperately wanted to hand sew your kimono the traditional way, I found the resources for that (and maybe went a little crazy and bought them). If you just want a traditional kimono that you can wear, and don’t mind that it was made with help from a sewing machine and supplies from your country, I’ll have resources for that, too.

I will also include resources to patterns, suppliers, and teachers that I’ve used consistently throughout these processes. I may not know the answers, but knowing where to find the answers is also a skill I’ve learned to value over the years, and being able to point you in the direction of the answers (even if I don’t know the answer myself) is something I have you appreciate and get a lot of use out of.

Why am I qualified? Well, it hardly seems like it, but by this point in my nearly three years of wasai (和裁 – Japanese sewing, as opposed to “yosai” or Western sewing) I’ve made seven kimonos for myself, one for my husband, three haori, four pairs of tabi socks to varying degrees of success, one Nagoya obi, two hanhaba obi, handfuls of emmonuki, oodles of hime, two pairs of mompe, a male haori, my own hakama, two sets of juban, more than a dozen furoshiki, my own kaishi ire (懐紙入れ), a sukiyabukuro (数寄屋袋), and a kobukusa (古帛紗) (three items for tea ceremony). Have I done all of them well? No. There’s a reason I’ve made so many kimono for myself. It takes a while before you really get a feel for the tailoring process, I’ve discovered. It’s simple . . . and also not. But I digress. I’ve been doing this a while. And while I may not be the best tailor, I am really good at documenting where I buy things. Which is really the point of this post! 😀 And since I’ve been doing this a while (and for a lot of things) YOU (and my ADHD brain) get to reap the benefit of having it logged somewhere that isn’t as easily misplaced as my sewing notebook.

Let’s start with the tools you’ll need. If you plan on using a machine (which is totally FINE BY THE WAY YOU CAN MAKE A TRADITIONAL KIMONO WITH ONE OK) you’ll need – a machine. I’ll include a few I’ve gotten my hands on and enjoyed that will carry you through, including two of mine that have lasted for years. I also recommend looking at yard sales and qualified secondhand retailers. A well maintained sewing machine or serger can have many years left at a discount.

TOOLS

Traditional/Japanese sourced:
KimonoYukiko on Etsy is an excellent resource for general wasai items.
Sewing gauge in CM.
Kakehari “third hand” clip
Kukedai desk clamp
Thread snips (I use these when I embroider and do sashiko)
Sashiko style thimble
Hand sewing needles
Hand sewing needles from KimonoYukiko
Silk hand sewing thread from KimonoYukiko
heradai (sewing, ironing and pinning surface) from MKimono
Traditional ruler
Japanese style pin cushions

Alternatives:
Alternate sewing gauge in CM.
Hot hem ruler in CM (perfect for rolling hems and doing mitered corners)
The ubiquitous tomato pin cushion
Magnetic pin caddy (trust me)
Ironing board (no link – any one you have will do)
Yardstick (any yardstick with CM)
Thread snips (these are my personal favorite but any will do)


Universal Tools (Things you’ll need whether you’re doing traditionally or not):
Sewing clips
Sewing pins
Fabric chalk or marking pens
Fabric scissors (specifically angled for tabletop or floor cutting)
Kneeling pad (if you have hard floors – TRUST ME)
Extra long tape measure
Fabric weights (optional but handy in a lot of cases when you’re not working with cotton)
Kimono hanger
A good iron (I purchased this one because it allowed me to make marks with the point like traditional Japanese irons which I can’t get my hands on – yet! It also heats quickly, evenly and is a great size for doing seams.)
NOTEBOOK – You’ll want a notebook that makes it easy to take measurements and draw diagrams. I like dot grids. You’ll also want something that lays FLAT so you can see your pages while your hands are busy. I think I could do a whole post on note books and accessories!
Erasable gel pens – please trust

Sewing Machines:
Singer C5200 – large plate is handy for the amount of fabric kimono requires
Bernette B37 (one of my favorite personal machines – excellent review here)

Resources

Kitsuke: My personal sensei, friend and all around nice human, Billy Matsunaga. Her Patreon and Instagram are also great resources. Her video below is how I learned how to start sewing kimono!

As above, KimonoYukiko is a great resource for wasai items.

MKimono is also a great resource, though they are often out of stock. Put in a request for items to be restocked to be notified. You might wait a while, but if you really want something traditional, it can be worth the wait. It’s how I got several of my items direct from Japan.

Book: How to Make Your Own Japanese Clothes

Where to Start?

Now, assuming you have the basic supplies, you first have to determine your measurements before you decide on fabric. Thankfully, my teacher, Billy Matsunaga, has a whole video dedicated to finding your kimono measurements. This will help you if you want to find secondhand kimono, new kimono, or in our case, sew your own!

Have someone help you measure if you can. Once you have your measurements done TWICE and you’ve verified that they match, you can be sure you have the correct measurements. Congratulations! You now have your kimono size! This is a true accomplishment. Now you have the information you need to start in the first video to make your own kimono. Grab a cup of tea, sit down with your notebook and erasable pens and give the first video at least two watches. Pause it. Rewind it. Ask questions until you get the answers you need – they’re in there!

I have a task list with timestamps associated with that video on making a kimono. I haven’t typed it up yet, and that would make for an entirely other post, but I think it would be helpful to some people? If this would be helpful to you, for example, collar begins at 20:22, and hems are here, etc, would you comment and let me know? I’ve hand written it out for now, but if it would be helpful, I’d hot link it for you. 🙂

FABRIC SHOPPING~!!!

Well, almost.

Yes, you get to go shopping for your first fabric! But PLEASE don’t go buying your dream fabric for your first kimono. Or you will have nightmares. Instead, go to your local thrift store and buy a bedsheet or two. I’m not kidding. I did this for my first juban (undergarment) and kimono. And I’m very glad I took Billy’s advice. I learned a lot and made a lot of mistakes for very little monetary investment.

Once you get to a point where you’re ready to invest, here are a few places I shop. I almost never buy fabric on Amazon. I have rarely heard good things.

Fabric Mart Fabrics – My blue kimono fabric is from here!
JoAnn’s – oh dear I spend way too much here
Mood Fabrics – designer fabrics
Etsy – I have had many successes here from many different sellers!

Let’s talk FIBER. My first juban was from some old polyester (yes, POLYESTER) bedsheets I found at Goodwill with FLAMINGOS on them. It is amazing. Possibly poly-cotton because of how it sticks to cotton, but it is definitely poly because of how it smells when ironed. My second haori I thought to work with was 100% polyester, and I was not ready for that slippery challenge as a new seamstress. From then on, I worked with cotton for my next several kimono, and it was perfect for me to learn on. If you’re starting out, definitely try cotton. It’s cheaper, for starters, and way more forgiving. It’s easier to iron and tell it what to do than other fibers. It’s easily washed and cared for, and it comes in so many fun prints and colors! Until you’re confident you’ve discovered the measurements and skill of making a kimono that fits you, I highly recommend sticking to cotton.

Just Try

You’ve got your supplies, measurements, and fabric – now all you have to do is work up the gumption to start. To be honest, I sat on some fabric for over a year – a YEAR before I told myself to try. I admittedly still have a serger sitting in my craft room that I haven’t touched because it intimidates me. But this is the year I fix that.

Here are some playlists I like to listen to while I work that may ease you into the kimono making mood.

80’s Japanese
80’s Japanese City Pop
Greatest Ghibli Music
Genshin Concert 2021

I’ll be updating this post as I find more resources that I think will aid you – and I’ll let you know if I ever figure out that serger. 😉 Until then, happy kimono making!

"XOXO, Amber" in hand-styled script
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Easy DIY Facemask with Filter Pocket

Hey, all! So with the craziness of COVID-19, medical personnel are incredibly lacking in surgical masks, partly due to factory closures in China and partly due to increase demand by the public and hoarding. To make up for the lack of supplies, there have been multiple requests for capable members of the community to make masks.

Well, TO ARMS, CRAFTERS! If we cosplayers, crafty people, and sewists gather our resources, dig through our tremendous caches of supplies, and supports our communities! If you don’t have these supplies, or there is just a thing or two you’re missing, I’ve got a handy dandy list for you. (And, by the by, I definitely suggest utilizing Amazon or other online service. Most stores are out of elastic because of the many facemask projects. And, of course, if you don’t have to go out, stay home.)

This post may contain affiliate links. For more on that, check here.

Materials:

Tools:

  • Sewing machine
  • Iron (I’ve never used an expensive iron in my life until THIS ONE and WOW. I love ironing now!)
  • Ironing board
  • Ruler or measuring tape
  • Sewing sheers
  • Safety pin
  • Wire cutters (optional)
  • Needlenose pliers (optional)

You need one (1) piece of your main fabric that is 11″ x 8″. You will need to cut two (2) pieces of your lining or inner fabric that are 8″ x 5″. Putting this together is really easy, and is a GREAT beginner sewing project. (You can even use this as a home economics lesson during quarantine lock down!) You need to be able to do is measure, cut and sew a straight line, use an iron, and fold pleats similar to folding a paper fan.

Video Instructions: (psst, watch till the end! <3 )

It’s really as easy as that!

You can also add an optional channel in the top of the mask if you want to add some wire to better conform it to your nose. (However, I’ve found that it’s not necessary for a good fit.) You will add the channel prior to sewing the pleats, and after sewing the three pieces of fabric together. At the top of the mask, sew a rectangle with one short side open to allow you to slid the piece of wire into. The wire should be about 1 1/4″ long. With your needlenose pliers, round the ends to prevent them from poking through the fabric. Slide the wire into the channel, then simply sew it closed before moving onto the pleats.

After you’ve sewn up your mask, you can cut a portion of a vacuum filter bag to aid in filtering out particles. (A study was done and found that vacuum bags are nearly as effective as surgical masks.) But because the internet is a weird place, I’m letting you know that I am not a doctor, a scientist, or in any profession to make a professional recommendation about the ability of these things to protect you or others and I encourage to use common sense and ask a professional and also don’t sue me if you get sick kthxbai.

And now you are ready to make your own mask!

Please share to help others!

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Mighty Nein Cosplay: Jester LaVorre

Here are all the details on my Jester LaVorre cosplays, both her canon outfit from the campaign and the modern alternate universe (AU) clothes that I designed.

The Little Sapphire

Jester LaVorre is a little blue Tiefling girl played by the amazing Laura Bailey. Her personality is adorable, and getting to dress up as her is a ton of fun. I don’t usually get into character (unless I’m trooping for the 501st or Rebel Legions) but with Jester, it just happens naturally! (What this means for my own personality I will leave up to your imagination.) But getting to be goofy, girly, and a naughty prankster are just too much fun. (If you leave me a notebook, I will draw something in it.)

Whether Jester is reading poorly written harlequin novels, eating donuts, or battling alongside her friends, she is always genuine and kind. I just love her!

I found a lovely Fjord at Colossalcon East 2019!

This post may contain affiliate links. For more on that, check here

Supplies:

Clothing –

While this will get you all the base pieces I used for my cosplay, it won’t be the only thing you will need. I did not use any other material for the chemise except what was already there. I simply hemmed it to the length I wanted and added the extra to the sleeves. That said, if you are much taller than me, you might want to find an alternative – there was not that much to use afterward. (I’m 5’2″.)

I did not have to do any alterations to the corset. It fit great! Just make sure to check your measurements and compare. Mine was a perfect fit.

Makeup –

Whether you’re doing traditional Jessie or modern, the makeup is the same! Though, if you wanted to do a more festival look, with added sequins or crystals, it definitely seems like something our unicorn, candy-loving tiefling would do! So have fun with it!

A bunch of Jesters at Colossalcon East

Materials –

Modern Jester

Supplies:

There is a lot that is going to be added to this post. Tons more photos, tutorials, video tutorials, and so much more. So bookmark it and check back! Even though it isn’t finished, I wanted to get a list started since I had so many questions!


First, I purchased a pair of white Levi’s shorts (I got mine at Walmart on a whim, but you can easily purchase them online at the link, too.) Research the type of material in yours, whether it is a synthetic heavy blend (aka comfy) or mostly cotton, as that will determine which sort of dye you use.

I used Rit liquid dye in Petal Pink. As is a regular habit of mine when treasure hunting for cosplays, I made a trip to Goodwill and found a big ol’ stock pot, perfect for stove top dying projects. (Most dying projects require to maintain heat for a prolonged period, meaning that dying in the tub won’t work.) I followed the directions on the dye, and but first got my shorts soaking wet. Wring them out a bit. Figure out where you’ll want your ombre to stop. Using straightpins where you want to stop dipping is really helpful!

I made one mark where I want the lightest pink to blend to white, and then another mark of pins where I wanted the darkest pink to blend into the light pink. Holding your garment from the lightest section, dip the base to be dyed into the readied dye bath up until your highest set of pins and pull it right back out. This lets the dye just touch that bit of fabric once so it stays nice and light!

  • Test scrap of fabric to practice dip dying.
  • This is the pink I used for the chemise. For the shorts, I used petal pink in a formula that matched the material. Same idea, though!
  • Make sure that whatever you’re dying you rinse it well when finished!
  • And the dip dyed shorts after a wash and dry cycle!

Once it was washed well and dried, I moved on to making the flowers. You could draw this on with a fabric marker, like these markers by Sharpie. I decided to embroider them! I recently got into embroidery and found that it is a hobby that I loved. For the flowers, I used DMC 601 6-strand thread. However you decide to do it, you’ll want to add a disappearing ink fabric pen. With that, you can doodle on most fabrics to sketch out your idea BEFORE making it permanent. Then it stays on long enough for you to color it in with sharpie or to embroider it.

The disappearing ink (before it disappeared)

It was really a fun project! I think they are perfect for Jester, but it is also really fun to have a piece of custom clothing that I designed and crafted. If you like this design and make your own Jester-inspired shorts, I’d LOVE to see them!


This post will continue to be updated with information on how I did this cosplay, so be sure to bookmark it for future reference! In the meantime, if you have any specific questions, feel free to drop me a comment and I will answer you as soon as I can.

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The AMAZING Skin Solution that takes LESS than Five Minutes

You may have seen my recent video on my instagram, but just in case, I’ll make sure I share it below. In the video, I do a (sped up) version of my nightly routine. While I recorded it, including extra time spent showing off the products, it was actually UNDER five minutes, and that included removing my makeup! WOW! I was absolutely amazed.

This post may contain affiliate links. For more on that, check here.

Products Used:

  1. Facial Cleanser by Instanatural – use the cleanser as directed. If you need a little extra makeup removing power, add a little extra virgin olive oil in with your cleanser. (TRUST me!!!) Wash away!
  2. Toner – Vitamin C by Instanatural – depending on the toner, the directions may differ, but generally, you want to shake the product, dispense into either your palms or on a cotton round, and pat it gently onto the face. Toner is so important to your facial routine. But it won’t give you the benefits if you don’t have the right product (avoid alcohol at all costs!) and don’t use it at the right step. Toner is done after cleansing to adjust the PH balance of skin back to where it should be. This allows the products you’re about to put on your face to actually do the work they are supposed to. If your toner makes your skin feel “tight,” most likely, it is just a drying agent and not a balancing one, and that is a HUGE NO NO!
  3. Serum – Vitamin C by Instanatural – the serum is the powerhouse of your nightly routine. It is the agent that delivers the compact, concentrated nutrients that help your skin. I love the vitamin C serum because how it helped reduce my redness and in general, evens my skin tone! You might want a different serum depending on your skin goals and needs, but if you’re new to skincare, you can’t go wrong with this one! (And the smell is simply YUMMY!)
  4. Roller by Witty – I love using my roller! Not only does it just feel awesome, but it also helps me save money! Seriously. I can get away with just a few DROPS of my serum when I use my roller because none of it gets soaked into my fingertips! (To be fair, in the video, I use more because instagram.) It is also great for helping with cystic acne. Pop that baby in the fridge and apply it to any inflamed areas to reduce swelling. It also works great for reducing morning puffiness.
  5. Night cream by Instanatural – after you’ve applied your serums, the cream is going to be the protective layer that keeps your skin hydrated and helps you to absorb the nutrients from the serums while you sleep. I had the pleasure of being taught how to give yourself a spa facial by a premier aesthetician, and it makes such a difference. I’ll be able to do a video on that later, but for now, when you apply lotion, only dispense it on your fingertips. Your fingertips absorb product the least, which means it will last longer and most of it will go on your face where it belongs. Tap your fingers together until you have an even amount on each fingertip (sans thumbs). Then, gently tap the product all over your face until it is evenly absorbed. It helps to stimulate circulation as well as prevents aging by eliminating unnecessary tugging. Plus, it just feels nice!

I’ve been using Instanatural since 2017 when a friend introduced it to me (Thanks, Savannah!). It’s made in Orlando, and I admit, this FL girl loves that! (Plus, I feel like it’s genuine Florida citrus in these products!) The products are clean, not tested on animals, and actually work.

No filter, no editing, just my face, half brows and all!

If you’re wondering if these will work for your skin, I’ll share what skin hurdles I have and how these have helped. First, my skin is combination. I have patches that are usually oily and patches that are sometimes dry. I also have random breakout (usually coinciding with my cycle) and have hyper-pigmentation, where the skin is perpetually red after a breakout in the past. Even though I have rarely broken out since high school, my skin retains the redness of each one for months, sometimes years! I also have sensitive skin that gets easily irritated and inflamed. I have the best experience with my skin when I regularly do this nightly routine. During the day, I also use Instanatural day cream and sunscreen if it is in the summertime. I exfoliate as needed, which is usually every 1 – 2 weeks. Also, I have found that drinking lots of water makes a big difference, too!

So tell me – what works for your skin? What products do you love? Try this easy nightly routine; I’d love to hear your results!